How a Cowboy Boot Should Fit
Sizing: When ordering your first pair of western boots, you should start with a ½ a size down from your normal shoe size. If possible, you should stop by one of our stores and try on several pairs of boots to see how each brand fits. We suggest you try on boots in the afternoon when your feet are the largest, and wear socks you would normally wear with boots, lightweight – midweight socks.
Heel Slipping Is Good! The boot must have slippage in the heel to fit properly. There should be anywhere from ½ inch to as much as 1 inch. If the heel does not slip, you will develop a blister because the boot is too small. The heel slippage will disappear after weeks of wearing as the leather stretches and fits your foot.
Tightness: The leather on a new boot should be snug across the instep, but not too tight. Snugness on the instep is what holds the boot in place and is vital for a proper fit. Tightness will disappear as the leather stretches and gives to your foot.
Shaft: The upper; Protects the calf and ankles
Vamp: The foot; Covers the front of the foot and the toes
Welt: A strip of leather that is stitched to the upper and insole of a boot, and serves an attach-point for the outsole. The outsole is both cemented and stitched to the welt.
Heel Counter: Covers the back part of the heel and foot
Pull Straps: The tabs or loops at the top of the shaft that provides better leverage in pulling the boots on
Insole: The foundation of the boot. Also known as the “footbed”, the insole is the inner layer that contacts, cushions and wick sweat from the bottom of the foot.
Outsole: The bottom of the boot that has contact with the ground. This layer ranges from rubber, crepe, and smooth leather.
Heel: Lower heels (roper/walking heels) are easiest to walk or work in, and higher heels (western heels) are best for riding. A middle heel is the most versatile.
Western Heel
Roper/Walking Heel
Toe: Here are some common toe styles for western boots
- R-Toe: Round with a tapered foot
- Snip, D-Toe: A tapered foot that comes to a point with a flat tip
- Pointed, J-Toe: Sharply pointed with a tapered foot
- Roper, W and U-Toe: Fully rounded
- Square Toe: Angular foot with a wide, flat toe
Boot & Shoe General Width:
Men’s Widths
| Normal or Regular | D or M |
| Wide | EW, EE, W |
| Extra Wide | EEE, EEEE |
| Narrow | B |
Women’s Widths
| Normal or Regular | B or M |
| Wide | C or W |
| Narrow | A |